Start the measurements at the junction of the mist tubing. From the pressure pump and the mist line, proceed to the desired end point. You should take measurements on the patio floor; the distance parallels where you’ll mount the mist lines on the joists above the floor. Based on each individual situation, you may have to break the measurements up into several segments. After measuring, calculate the number of lengths needed and write the measurements on a pad. Lay the mist lines on the patio floor according to the recorded measurements.

Step 2: Begin Hanging the Lines

When hanging the lines, keep in mind that they have to hang approximately 8′ above the ground to work properly. The lines come with special clips lined with rubber that slide into place; when a screw is put into both holes, the clips lock for a tight fit.

Step 3: Join the Pipes

At the end, join the pipes with a standard compression fitting. The fitting has a nut on the outside and inside of the ferule; it crimps around, creating a tight seal, after you tighten down the nut. Place the fitting on the ground on its side. This way, topside, you’ll have only one joint to make when you go to additional lengths: just slide them into the existing fitting, tighten them and work down the pipe.

Slide a compression coupling on both ends of the first section of mist line and tighten securely, using a pair of wrenches.

Step 4: Hang the Third Line

Standing on a ladder, measure a reasonable distance away from the concrete wall and mark the spot. Place a cushion clamp over the mist line and attach it to the joist with a wood screw. Attach another clamp on the upper and lower part of the line and fasten them to the joists. Slide the second section of mist line into the compression coupling that was attached to the first. Add a clamp and again attach it to the overhead joist. Hang the third line, and the first part of the job is complete.

Step 5: Install the Fourth Line; Tighten the Fittings

There is one more 8′ section of pipe that cannot be installed straight; it must be installed with a 90-degree compression fitting. It works on the same principle as the couplings: when it’s in place, the 8′ section can be installed and finished off with a blind cap. Slip the 90-degree elbow on the end of the third mist line and use a pair of wrenches to tighten the connection firmly. When the elbow is in place, tighten the fourth section of line, with the attached coupling and blind cap, with the wrenches. Slide the mist line into the elbow and run it in the direction of the house; again, secure the line with a clamp to the joist. The last step is to tighten all the compression fittings that join the mistlines. Now it’s time to hook up the water and electricity.

Step 6: Install the Pressure Tubing

Install the pressure tubing (it comes with the kit) from the back of the pressure pump to the misting lines. The tubing is UV protected, which means it can be run in direct sunlight or underground, as long as it’s sleeved into a larger pipe. Use the clips that come with the kit to install the tubing, making sure it’s secured firmly to the mounting location to prevent movement caused by pump vibration.

Step 7: Insert the Tubing Into the Compression Coupling

Slip the nut and ferrule on the tubing before inserting the tubing into the compression coupling at the starting point of the mist line; tighten the fitting as before. Route the tubing toward the pressure pump, mounting it with cushion clamps, first to the joists, then to the wall. When it’s securely attached, cut any excess and push it into the fitting located on the back of the pump. Place the pump with its back against the wall.

With the mist lines completed, it’s time to plug into a GFCI unit, which is safe to use around water-based equipment.

Step 8: Turn on the Water, and Start the Pump

Air and debris must now be bled from the misting lines. Turn on the water and start the pump; water will begin leaking out of the welded nozzles. Walk along the lines and check the welded nozzles for bleeding. Allow the water to run for 15 seconds, then shut it off and install the mist nozzles into each nozzle that bled. Repeat the process until you have two or three empty nozzles. At this point, let the water run for a full minute, then turn it off and install the remaining mist nozzles

Step 9: Monitor the System

When the system is in place, regularly monitor the tubing, particularly if it’s fastened to brick or another rough surface. Constant vibration against a rough surface will eventually wear the tubing thin. Replacement tubing can be purchased from the manufacturer or at a plumbing-supply store.

The next item on the checklist is the filter at the back of the pump. Most manufacturers will include several filters with the initial purchase and usually sell individual filters. A filter works overtime filtering sediment, which will clog nozzles, from the water supply. Some filters are equipped with phosphate crystals, which attach to sediment that seeps through and out the nozzle.

Check the filter every month: simply unscrew the bottom half, remove and inspect the filter. Wash the filter if it needs cleaning, or simply practice good maintenance and change the filter every month.

Step 10: Watch the Pump

Also, keep a watchful eye on the pump. Before cold weather sets in, unhook the water and electricity and move the pump into a garage or other dry area. It’s also a good idea to winterize the pump by draining the system completely. To do so, turn the water on, then off. Let the pump run for a minute and then turn it off.

Step 11: Check the Nozzles Regularly

Lastly, the nozzles should be checked on a regular basis. Keep an eye out for any nozzle that seems to have irregular spray; this may indicate that sediment is blocking the water flow of the nozzle. If this happens, buy nozzle cleaner and mix it with a gallon of water. Pour the solution into the hole on the pump and let it flush the lines. Repeat several times while monitoring the affected nozzle.

After the hot season ends, remove the nozzles and soak them in a calcium-lime remover solution. Let them soak in the solution until hot weather returns and then reinstall them.

“Port-A-Cool, LLC, is excited to continue our collaboration with West Coast Customs,” Director of Marketing and Advertising, Leon Aldridge, said. “The world-renowned custom car shop is a natural fit for our portable units, which are cost- and energy-effective solutions to cooling areas such as garages or shops that are not conducive to air conditioning.”

The units provided by Port-A-Cool, LLC, will keep the WCC crew cool as they customize rides for celebrities such as Will.i.am and Justin Bieber on Inside West Coast Customs, Sundays at 8 p.m. on Discovery’s HD Theater and Fridays at 10 a.m. on Discovery Channel.

Whether an auto hobbyist, avid tailgater, or entertaining outdoors, Port-A-Cool portable evaporative coolers offer enjoyment on the days when the mercury soars. Port-A-Cool units are designed for portable spot cooling and can reduce temperatures by 30 degrees F using tap water. Various models are available to suit any budget and accommodate 500-4,000 square feet.

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Advancedmistingsystems.com

When water evaporates from the surface of something, that surface becomes much cooler because it requires heat to change the liquid into a vapor. A nice breeze on a hot day cools us because the current of air makes perspiration evaporate quickly. The heat needed for this evaporation is taken from our own bodies.

As air comes in contact with water it absorbs it. The amount of water absorbed depends largely on how much water is already in the air. The term humidity describes the level of water in the air. If the air holds 50% of its capacity, the humidity would be 50%. If the humidity is low, then the capacity to hold more water is higher, and a greater amount of evaporation takes place.

When the air contains large amounts of moisture, the humidity is said to be high. If the air contains only a small amount of moisture, the humidity is said to be low. When the air holds as much moisture as possible at a certain temperature, the air is saturated. At saturation, the temperature and the dew point are the same. The amount of humidity varies according to the temperature and location. The warmer the air, the more moisture it is able to hold.

The amount of water in the air compared to the amount required for saturation is called relative humidity. If the air contains only half the amount of moisture it can hold when saturated, the relative humidity is 50%.

In order to evaporate water, heat is required. A British Thermal Unit, or B.T.U., is a unit used to measure heat. The evaporation of 1 gallon of water requires almost 8,700 B.T.U.’s of heat. This heat comes from whatever the water is in contact with as it evaporates. This could be a hot sidewalk, a tree, your body, from the air itself, or from wet cooling pads on a Port-A-Cool. As heat is removed from an object, the temperature of that object is decreased, in this case, the air.

The temperature of the water does not have a great effect upon the cooling produced through evaporation. If you placed a gallon of 50° F. water on a warm sidewalk (90° F.), it would produce 9,000 B.T.U.’s of cooling. A gallon of 90° F. water would produce 8,700 B.T.U.’s of cooling, only 3% difference.

The following demonstrates the B.T.U.’s removed from the air based on a given amount of water consumed in an hour:

A cubic volume of air at a certain temperature has the ability to hold a certain amount of moisture. In the morning the humidity may be high, but as the day passes and the temperature increases, the relative humidity will naturally decrease. The extent to which relative humidity decreases through the day can be affected by weather systems and proximity to large bodies of water. If a weather system moves in that has a lot of water associated with it already, the drop in humidity will not be as great. Relative humidity drops as air temperature increases. For every 20° rise in temperature, the moisture holding ability of air doubles. For instance, if the temperature of the air was 70° F. and the relative humidity was 100% at 5:00 A.M. and the temperature increased to 90° F. at noon, the moisture holding ability of the air would be twice as much. As a result, the air would now hold only half of the moisture it is capable of holding and the relative humidity of the air would drop to 50%.

The hotter the day, the dryer the air becomes, and the more cooling that can take place through the evaporation of water. When the day gets hot enough to require cooling, the relative humidity will be much lower than in the morning and allow evaporative cooling to work more efficiently.

The efficiency of any evaporative cooling device is directly related to its ability to evaporate water (cool) at a given relative humidity. Units, sometimes described as, “swamp coolers”, with low efficiency will cool only at low relative humidity levels, while a high efficiency unit, such as a Port-A-Cool®, can achieve effective cooling at much higher humidity levels.

History Of The Evaporative Cooling Phenomenon

During the 1500′s the first mechanical fan was built to provide ventilation. In 1800, textile manufacturers in New England began using water evaporative systems to condition the air in their mills. The systems consisted of large “cooling towers” with fans that transported the water-cooled air inside buildings.

In 1939 “swamp cooler” type devices were produced and presented relief from heat for homes and facilities. They cooled the temperature on certain days, when the relative humidity was low, around 8 degrees.

Evaporative Cooling And Port-A-Cool^®

Since Port-A-Cool® products are state of the art, high efficiency, portable evaporative cooling systems, their high efficiency cooling media coupled with unique housing designs, allow Port-A-Cool® units to cool effectively even in very high humidity conditions, conditions that no other portable evaporative cooling device, such as a “swamp cooler” could possibly approach. Since Port-A-Cool® units are portable, they can be easily moved around shops, factories, back yards, sporting events and hundreds of other areas for maximum effectiveness, comfort and increased productivity.

Port-A-Cool® uses a specially designed ridged cooling media, contained in a properly designed housing to insure effective direction of the air over the water saturated media at the proper air velocity. The effectiveness of Port-A-Cool® products is best appreciated when the temperature is above 95° F. and below 75% relative humidity.

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Air King offers a full line of industrial grade and commercial grade air circulating fan solutions to meet almost any need you might have.

Weather your need is in industrial setting such as manufacturing plants and warehouses or more commercial setting such as offices, schools or hospitals – Air King has the perfect solution for you.
Powerful motors that last for years and years are what Air King’s Air Circulators have come to been known as and we are not stopping now.

Call today for a free consultation.  Our professional and knowlegable sales staff is standing by to help you evaluate your application and help design the most effective and cost conscious misting/cooling system to help fight the Hot Summer!

CALL TODAY!!! 760-779-1352 or toll FREE 800-549-5077